A Season of Firsts in Khyam Lungpa

Authored By: Anindya Mukherjee

Some adventures don’t come from meticulous planning—they emerge when plans fall apart. August 2023 was supposed to be about Kang Yatse IV, a mountain I already knew intimately from a previous first ascent in 2021. This time, the goal was to traverse its twin summits with my climbing partner, Chris Ranke. But after days of battling the northern slopes, a stomach bug—likely from a bad meal on the train to Delhi—knocked me out of the game. Chris went on to tackle Kang Yatse I, while I retreated to Leh, nursing disappointment and a grumbling gut. 

With three unexpected free days in hand, I turned to my maps. That’s when I noticed the Khyam Lungpa Valley, a relatively unknown slice of Ladakh. A handful of unclimbed 6000m peaks within a short trek from the road? It was too tempting to pass up. On 20 August, I hopped into Deldan Nurboo’s taxi with Abdul Latif, a quiet yet dependable porter, and we set off for Rumtse. From there, a 10-kilometre hike brought us to a campsite by a stream at 5150m, with the valley’s untamed beauty stretching ahead. I fell asleep dreaming of possibilities. 

The next day, I scrambled up a nearby 5885m peak to get a lay of the land. It was an easy climb, but the views were transformative. Jagged peaks surrounded me, untouched and full of promise. There were even old cairns on the summit—a quiet reminder that this wild landscape wasn’t entirely forgotten. That solo ascent reignited my spirit and planted a seed: I had to come back to Khyam Lungpa, but not alone. This valley deserved a deeper dive, and I wanted to share it with others who cared about respectful, low-impact alpinism in the Himalaya.

June 2024: A Birthday Climb
Fast forward to June 2024. Plans for North Sikkim were washed out by torrential rains, so I pivoted back to Khyam Lungpa with Aloke Kumar Das, my long-time expedition partner. Our target was a striking 6050m peak I’d spotted during my 2023 trip. After acclimatising in Leh, we set up base camp at 5150m and moved to a high camp at 5350m.

On 18 June, we launched our climb. The east face started with loose scree and snow patches, gradually steepening. Disaster struck when one of Aloke’s crampons broke—on an icy face, no less. With no choice but to turn back, Aloke left me to continue solo. The climb intensified as I tackled the exposed north ridge, but by 1:06 PM, I stood atop Peak 6050m. The summit views were breathtaking—an endless canvas of peaks and glaciers. I named the route ‘Kulwinder,’ a tribute to someone special and symbolic of the farmers' protest movement. The descent via the south ridge was smooth, and by evening, I was back at base camp, savouring a unique birthday gift: a solo first ascent.

July 2024: Teamwork and Ama Chomo Nyug Ri
In July, I returned with Gerry Galligan and a team of young climbers for a mentorship-focused expedition. Our primary goal was Ama Chomo Nyug Ri (6057m), a peak that had seen prior ascents but none documented. After setting up camp and enduring a fierce storm, Gerry and I climbed the east ridge on 30 July. Near the summit, we found an old cairn, a bittersweet discovery that meant we weren’t the first. Still, it felt like a meaningful ascent—a connection to the past and a test of our resilience.

August 2024: The Untouched Peak 6044m
With Ama Chomo Nyug Ri behind us, our sights turned to Peak 6044m, a pristine, ice-covered challenge. Persistent rain delayed our plans, and we had to send two team members down due to altitude sickness. Finally, on 7 August, the weather cleared, and we launched our climb. Two teams worked their way up different routes before converging on the east ridge. This time, the summit was ours, untouched and undefiled. We celebrated with prayer flags and a symbolic marker before descending via the west ridge, completing the first full traverse of the peak. 

September 2024: One Last Challenge
Even as we wrapped up in August, one line on Peak 6044m—its north face—kept calling to me. After finishing guiding commitments in the Markha Valley, I returned with Aloke for one last push. On 2 September, I set off solo up the steep, icy face. The climb demanded everything—precision, patience, and sheer determination. Two hours later, I topped out, completing a second ascent of the peak via a bold new route, which I named ‘Aloke Da.’ Standing there, I felt the journey come full circle. The Khyam Lungpa Valley had given me its secrets, and I’d done my best to honour them. 

Reflections and Gratitude
Over three visits, the Khyam Lungpa became more than just a climbing destination; it felt like a partner in adventure. My gear played a crucial role in this journey. Rab's Kangri Hardshell, Geon Fleece Hoody and Microlight Alpine Jacket performed exceptionally well, shielding me from the valley’s biting winds and cold. But most of my admiration goes to my pair of Salewa Crow GTX Boots, which handled everything from loose scree to steep ice with unwavering reliability. None of this would have been possible without the support of friends, mentors, and local allies. To the Himalayan Club, Rigzin Namgyal, Mero Expeditions, Sameer Jhawar, Bhushan Poshe, Sabyasachi Talukdar and my steadfast team—thank you for being part of this unforgettable season. Here’s to many more peaks, stories, and shared journeys ahead.